Morocco In Colour
What lies beneath the colours of a place?
Morocco is a country of contrasts. That was a phrase that my local guide stated almost everyday I spent there.
On one hand, in most places of Morocco, the exterior build of their common architectural styles took on either a monocolour shade of mud yellow/ brick red-orange/ sand brown or sometimes it was white with a tone of sky blue — blending almost seamlessly into its natural landscapes.
Yet, the spaces created within them were a burst of colourful treat to one’s eyes. Right from the exterior walls, doors and windows to the rugs and paintings indoors, to the mode of transportation, food, clothing and other everyday objects — everything seemed to be crafted with a keen eye for beautiful colour contrasts and creative designs.
The Outside
A few hours north of the famed-Casablanca and along the coastline is Tangier, dubbed the ‘White City’ due to its predominantly white-washed buildings. However, as you walk through the narrow alleyways of Tangier’s ‘medina’ (old town), more traditional colours get featured in the brightly-coloured wall murals. They mostly depict some of the Moroccan culture, its ‘kasbahs’ (citadels) and more. All the more interesting is that these murals blend into the buildings’ doors and windows and often become part of the art itself. Standing out in these wall paintings are the colours of ultramarine blue — that is said to be partly inspired by the distinct blue veils worn by the men of Tuareg tribe, part of the Berber indigenous peoples — and the bright yellow-orange which is also characteristic of the juicy oranges that Morocco, particularly Tangier, is famous for.
South of Tangier, is Chefchaouen, dubbed the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco’. Walking up and down through the maze-like streets of this mountain-town with blue-rinsed buildings, you hear different stories behind the shades of blue — everything from the colour acting as a mosquito repellent, a coolant during hot seasons and even possibly an attraction for tourists. Another popular theory is the influence of Jewish refugees who settled here after fleeing from the Spanish Inquisition in Spain and Portugal during the 15th century and then later in the 1930’s from the Hitler rule. In Jewish culture, blue is said to resemble the sea that mirrors the sky which represents heaven or the throne of God, and is often featured in many of their traditional materials. No matter which theory you lean towards, the place just lures you into its charm.
Also predominant in Morocco is the Moorish or Western Islamic architectural style, with its arches, courtyards and elaborate, arabesque motifs (decorative designs), where colour plays an important role. While green is considered sacred in Islam and is symbolic of paradise, other colours such as blue, white, red and yellow/gold are also widely featured. They can represent a range of things including purity, life force, earth, heaven and joy.
The INSIDE
Even if the exterior is sometimes plain, don’t underestimate the interior space in Morocco. Adorning even a simple home are thoughtfully designed rugs which were often hand-woven by women belonging to one of at least 45 indigenous Berber tribes. These usually display dynamic symbols, bold patterns/geometric shapes and brilliant colours that narrate a unique story. Whether they are the exquisite and warm, woolen rugs or the lighter, flatwoven ‘kilims’ or the slightly heavier ones like the Boucherite rag rugs made of whatever fabric material that was available — these tribal rugs have a multi-functional purpose whether in the mountains or in the desert.
While the rugs were traditionally made using natural dyes and in one’s home, over the years of mass market production and export, use of synthetic dyes has been growing. And as commercialization of the rugs increased, the symbols have slowly started to lose their meaning among the masses.
everything in between
But even beyond the interior decor, colour often does not escape other everyday objects — be it clothing & accessories, entertainment, transport vehicles or household items.
You see some of it in the making in the well-known Chouara tannery that is nestled in the oldest part of the medina in Fes. Dating back to practices since the 11th century, animal hides are manually processed here over days and weeks, ending with the process of dyeing. The leather hides are soaked in the circular dyeing vats containing dyes often from natural sources such as poppies for red, saffron for yellow, henna for orange or indigo for blue. This dyed leather then gets creatively turned into colourful shoes, poufs/cushions and bags, creating a vibrant background, especially in the Moroccan ‘souks’ (markets).
Though it would come as no surprise, that as traditional as the leather making process is, there has been an increased use of chemical dyes in recent times. This has been said to cause health concerns among those working at the tanneries and lead to water pollution, given that the waste generated through the process usually gets directed to the nearest river or water body. However, there seems to be efforts made over the last decade or so to explore efficient wastewater treatment options to mitigate environmental impacts while preserving this key industry of Morocco.
But just as for the leather, wool-based industries have traditionally used vegetable-derived or mineral-based natural dyes. A blend of colourful wool is featured in rugs, scarves, and other textile items, turning the streets and souks of Fes and beyond into a brilliant showcase of artistry.
Sure to catch your eye in these souks are also the vast collection of mesmerizing ceramic products — dishes, bowls, vases, plates, and of course, ‘tagines’ (North-African, funnel shaped pots for slow-cooking stews). While most local homes don’t often carry exquisitely designed pottery items, this centuries-old, Moroccan art-based industry is very much alive, with designs passed on from one craftsman to the next. With a heavy influence from the Arab settlements in north Africa from the 7th century onwards and its Islamic artistic designs, colour has found its place even in pottery.
Each region, with its characteristic minerals, defines the colour palette of the ceramics. Potteries in Fes are traditionally known for shaping ceramics with cobalt-blue motifs/designs on white glazed-background, given the presence of cobalt and copper in the rocks and river beds in the area. In other sites, it maybe a mix of green and black or monochrome red or orange, based on the minerals in the clay of that region. While the indigenous Berber pottery doesn’t feature ornate patterns like others, it’s simplicity shines through the minimal use of lightly coloured, geometrics.
When weaving through the markets, between all these leather, wool and ceramic products, you can’t help but also be curious about the baskets filled with multi-coloured, popcorn-like items. Sitting alongside herbs and spices, these are said to be the dried flowers of the prickly pear cactus used either for its medicinal properties or sometimes as home decor.
And even as you exit the souks and onto the streets, you don’t have to look far to find the next splash of colour.
THE BLUES
But the one colour that stood out throughout (at least for me) was blue and its different shades. Walking on the streets, sometimes you may find yourself witnessing a game of checkers/draughts played by the local residents. Though some have proper game boards, others use makeshift ones with commonplace items like blue bottle caps replacing regular game pieces.
And if you don’t encounter that, you are certainly bound to see at least one person wearing a ‘daraa’ (a loose gown/robe) with its fabric dazzling in a distinct indigo blue colour. Several sources link the use of indigo-dyed cloth to reducing one’s absorption of UV light from the bright, hot desert sun. Initially using natural indigo dyes and techniques from West Africa, legend has it that this blue-clothing fashion was popularized by the nomadic Tuareg peoples who controlled the trans-Saharan trade routes back in the day. With the dye leaving behind a blue stain on their skin, the Tuareg men have often been called the ‘Blue Men of the Sahara’.
But who would have thought that indigo, a colour symbolizing protection in West African traditions, would have later been forced to take on a darker undertone in the history of the trans-Atlantic slave trade. While synthetic indigo dominates the markets these days, there was a time when the knowledge of indigo cultivation and the years it took to master the art of using natural indigo to yield different shades of blue, made the expertise held by the people in Africa (and India) something sought after by the West and other colonial powers.
Rising above this painful memory of the continent, blue continues to be a fixture in many parts of this region. A perfect example is the quaint, coastal city of Essaouira, effortlessly drawing attention to its numerous blue doors and blue fishing boats. Once again, the colour comes with several different narratives. Sometimes, it is a story of fishermen using blue, resembling the sea, to confuse the fish into their nets. Or other times it is said to serve as a tribute, as some say, to the millenia-old practices of sourcing blue dye through the shells of sea snails, once present in high numbers in the nearby islands.
Regardless, experiencing Morocco through the lens of colours, opens the door to its fascinating history and its alluring artistic culture and traditions, that meld into the everyday life of this North African country of Morocco.
Travel Tips
Tip for the
Open-Minded
Traveler
Ask yourself if there are certain colours that keep showing up in a place you are visiting. Then chat with the locals or read up on the meaning and symbolism behind those colours.
Tip for the
Curious
Traveler
Trace the source and history behind the use of the popular colours in a place you are visiting. Explore the role these colours play(ed) in the past and present-day local culture and how it impacts/impacted the lives of the local people.
Tip for the
Reflective
Traveler
Think about how your life intersects with the history and present-day reality of popular colours in the place you visit. (Example: On what side of the indigo-involved slave trade was the place you currently live in a part of – the trader, the traded or the bystander? How has that role shaped the place you currently live in?)