Coasts of Mediterranean
How much of the coastal design is shaped by its waters?
When the various arms of the Mediterranean Sea lend themselves to the life of the coastal towns that their waters brush against, each one gets embraced quite differently into the very design of the place it holds.
As this water body becomes your street, the cityscape you then behold reveals a surprisingly refreshing design. While some coastal places once took on the identity of a trades hub, subsequently drawing its architectural and artistic influences from its far-reaching network; some other sea ports with their walled settlements, adopted a defensive design against the treasure-seeking or colonial powers that dared to cross the waters. Centuries later, the views of a coastal town you get from the water paints a one-of-a-kind picture – sometimes a blend of stunning artistry and an unsettling history.
FIRST MEDITERRANEAN STOP : OLD TOWN OF VENICE
When admiring the culturally rich and densely packed old town of Venice, one could almost never imagine that it sits on a marshy lagoon. For the builders back in the day, the soft clay-bed that lay underwater definitely put forward an interesting challenge. How to erect buildings on this lagoon that can last without sinking? The solution came in the form of thousands of wooden stakes being pitched close to each other, deep into the clay-ground, topped by wooden planks and then stone blocks. This underwater architectural marvel is what provides the much-needed foundation below today’s water-line of Venetian buildings.
It is said that Venice grew as a settlement when it offered the perfect refuge to those fleeing invaders ravaging Italy in the 5th century. With the low-lying waters making it difficult for invaders to navigate, the prime location soon catapulted this Italian city into a major trades hub. Its complex canal waterways served as a vital network to transport goods, enabling trade near and far. But the unique construction approach needed here meant that the buildings were tightly built next to each other, leaving very little to no option for open courtyards or gardens. Instead, the buildings boast several windows of all sizes, cozy balconies and ground floor corridors opening into the canals – letting in ample amounts of light and air.
Cruising on these canals, one is drawn to the elements of the often-ornate architectural styles from the various empires that formerly ruled and traded here, bleeding into the buildings both inside and out. Everything from rounded arches to elaborate stonework borrowed from the Byzantine Empire to the Ottoman and Islamic influencers. Interestingly, most of these beautifully-designed building facades actually face the waters. They once were a sign of wealth and indicator of stylistic preferences to those viewing from boats and ships.
But with changing climates, the water levels have been rising slowly, giving Venice the nickname of ‘Sinking City’. How modern-day architects and engineers solve this problem may have an impact on how the cityscape views might change in the future.
SECOND MEDITERRANEAN STOP : OLD TOWN OF DUBROVNIK
Along the same origin tales as Venice, the Croatian old town of Dubrovnik is said to have been founded by Roman refugees fleeing an ancient Greek town back in the seventh century. But the coastal and aerial views of this town yield a different defining feature. A 1.9km uninterrupted fortified stone wall!
With a maximum height reaching 25m and a width of up to 6m, the wall one can see today had its design shaped in the 14th century. It was gradually fortified after each successful defence against foreign invasions and even survived a great earthquake in the 17th century. Having defended the freedom of this old town from pirates and sea-based attacks, this wall continues to stand today as an expression of liberty.
Sitting on a 120-ft high cliff just outside this wall is another structure that provided strategic defense to this port. Often called “Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar”, the Lawrence Fortress was once a site armed with cannons, resisting invasions from both land and sea. Bearing a lesson that modern-day global affairs could use as a reminder is an engraved Latin inscription above the main entrance that translates to “Freedom is not to be sold for all the gold in the world”. Turning from a symbol of might and power, this fortress with its flowy three-terraced design has now become a symbol of art through its evolution into an outdoor theatre known for hosting many of Shapeakeare’s plays.
Peaking out from behind the wall and the fortress are brick orange terracotta roofs on stone buildings. Over the years of being weather-worn, these roofs, with a lifespan of over hundred years, create a pleasant visual harmony of sunset-like shades from all angles. Initially introduced by the Romans, this splash of brightness offers the perfect juxtaposition against the azure blue waters of the Adriatic Sea.
THIRD MEDITERRANEAN STOP : GREEK ISLANDS
Slowly approaching land from miles out on the Aegean Sea, one can almost get confused with what lies ahead. In the characteristically-hot Mediterranean weather, it almost seems like a thick layer of white snow has uncharacteristically blanketed a volcanic Greek island. But this is none other than the famed Santorini island with its distinct architecture of whitewashed, cubiform buildings.
Situated on the remnants of the biggest volcanic eruption from three thousand millennia ago, the towns of Santorini sit in harmony with the slope of the volcanic depression/crater. Many homes here were built by literally digging and carving into the volcanic rock. While this was the cheaper alternative for the farmers and sea-crew families, the steep cliffside view it offers those cruising the waters is nothing short of impressive.
And over the years, this monochromatic architecture dotted with blue doors, windows and domes has surfaced several historic accounts. As per one story, the white colour is said to keep the houses cool and the summers tolerable in a region known for almost year-round sun. Another account alludes to the inexpensive disinfecting aspect of limestone in the whitewash that played a role in containing serious diseases like cholera in early 20th century-Greece.
The use of blue, on the other hand, has been attributed to the cheap household cleaning agent that was often used to paint boats back in the day. The fishermen and sailors are said to have used the leftovers for the doors and windows. Also representing the sky and the sea, it now beautifully captures the everyday life of this coastal Mediterranean city.
And what probably sealed the deal is the regulation that rolled out in the 1960’s. The military dictatorship in Greek islands at the time made it mandatory for buildings to be painted white and blue, hoping to inspire a shared sense of patriotism and nationalism. Although that is no longer imposed, the tradition has stuck and together, this colour combination has become a symbol inseparable from Greece.
Boasting similar white cube dwellings is another dreamy Greek island, Mykonos. While aesthetics wasn’t the goal behind this form of architecture, there is still a certain mysterious charm that oozes from this hilly, seaside town. Its tightly stacked houses with a labyrinth of narrow streets were intended to possibly confuse pirates and invaders back in the day. But today, hundreds of people and quite a few cars can be seen roaming the tiered paths, enjoying the feeling of being lost in paradise (or one would think so).
Having been under the Venetian rule for over 300 years since the 13th century, the Greek and Venetian architectural styles have found a nice blend in Mykonos. Dubbed “Little Venice”, one of the quarters in Mykonos strikingly resembles the Venetian houses with several windows and small, open balconies set against the shallow turquoise waters.
However, easily impressing anyone looking in from the sea is the most distinguishable feature of this quaint town – its windmills. Nicknamed ‘The Island of the Winds’, Mykonos residents have been harnessing the area’s strong winds into wind power for years. Their hut-type windmills served as a way to mill grains like wheat and have become an iconic mainstay of the Mykonos landscape.
But way across on the western side of mainland Greece, the town of Corfu is nothing like its eastern counterparts, Santorini and Mykonos. Instead, an imposing fortress is what provides the backdrop to the town’s architectural mix of Venetian, French and British influenced-buildings. Home to barrack ruins and underground tunnels, the highest point of the Old Fortress once served as a lighthouse to the seafarers of the Greek seas.
Its location on the Adriatic arm of the Mediterranean sea, transformed Corfu not just into a key trading centre but also enabled its naval prowess. With strong walls bolstering the rocky coast, the town put up a great many fights as a base to launch and resist attacks against age-old colonizers. But today’s town offers a classic European appeal, with closely packed buildings of a light-coloured palette influenced by the various ruling powers in the last 500 years.
FINAL MEDITERRANEAN STOP : OLD TOWN OF KOTOR
Along the Adriatic coast, there is an eerie silence as you slowly pull into Europe’s southernmost fjord bay. Clouds hang low in the early afternoon, softening the sharpness of the rocky hills that flank the submerged river canyon. This yields the perfect setting for a fairytale legend that shrouds the origins of this Montenegro town of Kotor. According to the myth, sailors, guided by fairy Alkima, are said to have built up the town with a few rocks at a time, after each successful voyage.
Although starting out as a fishing town in the Roman times, Kotor has since woven in a mix of medieval architecture styles, having seen the rise and fall of multiple empires throughout its lifespan. The winding, fortified walls from the past camouflage into the rocks, almost indistinguishable from the limestone hills that offer their foundation.
The asymmetrical houses hugging the sloped terrain today have also had to consider everything from the need for unobstructed views and angle of the slope to the exposure to the sun. But no matter the shape, the houses in the bay often have one thing in common – their entrances face the sea. And as nightfall approaches, the light from these entrances gently animate the bay waters with firework-like reflections. And just like that, the town continues to shine like a gem.
THE STREETS OF WATER
Preserving the rich maritime history and charm of a place, while letting the waters continue to lightly transform its cityscapes. This is the fine balancing act that Mediterranean’s seaside towns and cities engage in every day.
The vantage point that such water bodies provide is perfect for learning and exploring a different side of coastal places. And here on the Mediterranean Sea, there seems to be an invitation out there to mindfully and responsibly step onto the streets of water to take in everything a coastal place has to offer.
Travel Tips
Tip for the Open-Minded Traveler
Head out into the water of the coastal place you are visiting and observe if there are any unique architectural features that stand out? (i.e., fortifying walls, common building colours and shapes, foreign architectural styles, etc.)
Tip for the Curious Traveler
Trace how the distinct architectural features came to be in the coastal place, given its location adjacent to a water body. (E.g. Were they developed to defend against sea-based attacks?). Check out if these features are associated with any national symbols or myths?
Tip for the Reflective Traveler
Pick and explore how one or more present day factors (e.g. international politics, climate change, cultural affinity to water activities, tourism, etc.) might be changing the design of coastal areas where you are either living in or visiting. Explore what aspects of the resulting coastal designs are most impacted and what are preserved. Think about how that is affecting the activities of local people.